Chernovtsy (or Chernivtsi in Ukrainian way) is a city in Western Ukraine, the historical center of Bukovina region. For a long time I wanted to visit this city because it was the place where the story of my favorite book of my childhood took place. The right moment came and I and my fiancé went to Chernovtsy within our Ukraine-Moldova trip.
After arriving in Chernovtsy early in the morning we tried to reach our host’s home. It was our first experience of staying at some couchsurfer’s place so I was excited and afraid at the same time. We had an address of the girl that had to host us, we knew the way to her home and of course we got lost in her district. Finally we found the apartment we needed, entered there and were very surprised if not to say shocked: in her 2-rooms flat she hosted 6 more couchsurfers. It turned out that these days there was a poetry festival “Meridian Chernowitz” and all others came to Chernovtsy for this festival.
It was a strange company of kind of eco-people: 3 Germans, 1 Ukrainian who was speaking German perfectly, 2 Moldovans and two of us. The whole morning the conversation was in German and I was sitting there like an idiot trying to catch some words. Our host didn’t know any German neither, she was laughing all the time and making photos of everybody. Very stressful first experience, I would say :) During this talk it turned out that I know one of the German guys. I met him in summer 2010 at the buffalo farm in Zakarpattia region, where I and my group from a workcamp spend one weekend and this guy was volunteering there. The world is so round! (I mean here that the world is very small. My fiance said that I can’t use the word “round”. I just translated literally a Russian expression. I leave this sentence how it is now, because it’s boring to say “small” and I don’t know how to say it in other way ^^)
In some time we went out and plunged in the city. I wanted to see everything there. Oh, I really love this place! It is quite small and there are not so many attractions. However it is a very beautiful city with everything that I like: multicolored churches, old narrow streets, pedestrian streets full of restaurants and hundreds of architectural monuments. Firstly I compared it with other Ukrainian cities in this style: Lviv and Uzhgorod. But Chernovtsy has its own specific face and charm. I can’t explain it in a proper way, but it’s a really marvelous city.
Besides just walking along the streets we also visited some events of the poetry festival. We have been to a presentation of Paul Celan’s poems in the house where he was living. We also went to the presentations of French and German poetry. In general there were a lot of events in different places the whole day during three days, so we missed a lot. But the festival was not our aim but a pleasant supplement to our city tour. And it helped us to enter the local university for free.
on Paul Celan's house
Meridian Chernowitz, German poetry
The university of Chernovtsy is its main sightseeing place. And usually you should pay to enter there if you’re not a student. But as I said with a leaflet of the festival you can go there without paying. That’s what we did. It is huge and beautiful. It was built as a residence of Bukovina Mitropolit in a byzantine and roman style. Then in 1875 it became a university. The left part of the building is the faculty of Philosophy. It has a very romantic courtyard. I felt in love with this courtyard, I can clearly imagine how it makes easy to think about some philosophical matters… The students in Chernovtsy are very lucky :)
on the way to Chernivtsi university
I forgot to write that we gave an interview about the festival to some channel. Unlike my fiancé I am really bad in speaking and I don’t like cameras, but there was no chance to escape. I hope it was a local channel and if I was shown on TV nobody I know has watched it.
We finished the day in Chernovtsy with a concert organized within the festival. It took place at the summer theater of a city park and was a combination of the poetry and the rock music. I found this a very impressive show. I have never thought that a poetry festival can have so many diverse events. And I had no idea that there is such a famous festival in Chernovtsy so that many people from other countries participate in it. Here is an official website of the “Meridian Chernowitz” festival”:
We left Chernovtsy the next morning and I was sad about it… But Moldova waited for us, we bought the bus tickets to Balti and continued our trip.
More photos of Chernovtsy here.